Hampstead 20th November 2010

Hampstead is a district of north central London. The key sights are a wealth of under-stated historical attractions, and the magnificent open spaces of Hampstead Heath. Kenwood House is one of the most accessible of London's great Regency homes. John Keats has a museum devoted to his life and work at his former residence here, and the inspiration for many of John Constable's landscapes is all around you on Hampstead Heath. 

Hampstead Village retains much of its original village character, and Hampstead High St alone houses no less than 18 grade II listed buildings. You will also find some interesting, non-mainstream shopping, several repertory theatres and one of the best art-house cinemas in London. Combine those with some of the most interesting historical pubs in the whole city, and a vibrant restaurant and cafe scene, and Hampstead really does have much to offer the visitor.

West Hampstead is less grand, and was traditionally a blue collar housing neighbourhood. Inevitably though, gentrification from about 1990 onwards changed all that, and the area is now a favoured residential area by young professionals. Aside from some budget accommodation, there is little of interest for the visitor here though.

Hampstead Heath, or just the Heath as locals call it, totalling 320 hectares is the largest green-space in the inner London, it is not a park and has a very different character to the highly manicured Royal Parks in central London. Its proximity to, and ease of access from, densely populated urban areas of London, have ensured that Hampstead Heath has a special place in the hearts of Londoners.

There are a great many cultural references to Hampstead Heath, with perhaps some of the more notable being:

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• Sir John Constable painted numerous landscapes from around the Heath

• John Keats composed his great "Ode to a Nightingale" whilst sitting at the Spaniard's Inn and hearing the sound of a nightingale on the heath.

• CS Lewis was inspired to write "The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe" whilst wandering Hampstead Heath on a snowy winter's day.

• The cult movie, "Scenes of a Sexual Nature", was shot entirely on Hampstead Heath. 

Parliament Hill: This is a high part of the Heath with clear open vistas, and the views looking south over the city are quite wonderful. On a clear morning, when you can see from Canary Wharf in the east all the way to Battersea Power Station in the west. However on our day we were lucky to see the trees in fount of us.

The Bathing Pond: There are three notable outdoor bathing ponds on the heath. The Men's Pond and Women's Pond are both part of the line of small lakes on the eastern edge of the heath known as Highgate Ponds, and the Mixed Pond is part of Hampstead Ponds on the opposite side.

The Hill Garden and Pergola: A quite beautiful hidden garden on West Heath, which is little known even too many Londoners. It was originally part of the gardens of 19th century Inverforth House built by Viscount Leverhulme (the then owner of Lever Brothers, now Unilever). The gardens are now common land and part of Hampstead Heath, and the most impressive feature is a restored timber pergola, covered with various climbing plants including roses, honeysuckle, clematis, wisteria and various vines.

  

Kenwood House: A splendid Regency house with enormous gardens and woodlands. The gardens alone are worth the visit and are a superb example of 18th century landscaping. Movie buffs will recognise Kenwood from Mansfield Park and Notting Hill amongst other famous films.

London Greenwich – 30th Sep 2010

Greenwich is best known for its maritime history and for giving its name to the Greenwich Meridian (0° longitude) and Greenwich Mean Time. The town became the site of a Royal palace, the Palace of Placentia from the 15th century, and was the birthplace of many in the House of Tudor, including Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. The palace fell into disrepair during the English Civil War and was rebuilt as the Royal Navel Hospital for Sailors by Sir Christopher Wren. These buildings became the Royal Naval College in 1873, and they remained an establishment for military education until 1998 when they passed into the hands of the Greenwich Foundation. The historic rooms within these buildings remain open to the public; other buildings are used by University of Greenwich and the Trinity College of Music. The maritime connections of Greenwich were celebrated in the 20th century, with the sitting of the Cutty Sark next to the river front, and the National Maritime Museum in the former buildings of the Royal Hospital School in 1934. Greenwich formed part of Kent until 1889 when the County of London was created.

Old Royal Navel College – Wren’s Stately structure was built in two houses so the Queen’s House would keep its river view. The buildings were built on the site of the old royal palace, where Henry VIII, Mary I and Elizabeth I were born. Only the chapel, the hall are open to the public.  

The great painted hall - 

The Chapel -  

Looking towards the Thames between the two Old Royal Navel college buildings: 

Queen’s House – this house was designed by Inigo Jones and was completed in 1637. It was originally meant to be the home of Anne of Denmark, wife of James I, but she died while it was still being built and it was finished for Charles I’s queen Henrietta Maria. In 2001 it was refurbished and opened to the public housing art collections from the National Maritime museum.

Royal Observatory – The meridian (0 degree longitude) that divides the Earth’s eastern and western hemisphere passes through here. Furthermore, in 1884, Greenwich Mean Time became the basis of time measurement for most of the world.  The original building, the Flamsteed house, was designed by Christopher Wren.

Old Royal Observatory upo:  n the hill of Greenwich Park - 

Looking down from the Royal Observatory -

Greenwich mean time -

The meridian line -

National Maritime Museum – A history of Britain’s relationship with the Seas

Canary Wharf - is built on the site of the West India Docks on the Isle of Dogs. From 1802, the area was one of the busiest docks in the world. By the 1950s, the port industry began to decline, leading to the docks closing by 1980. Canary Wharf itself takes its name from No. 32 berth of the West Wood Quay of the Import Dock.

The first buildings were completed in 1991 which included One Canada Square that became the UK's tallest building and a powerful symbol of the regeneration of Docklands. Upon opening, the London commercial property market had collapsed and Olympia and York Canary Wharf Limited filed for bankruptcy in May 1992.